Check Out
I have checked out. I stopped taking pictures and writing doing touristy things. I hang out and walk and eat and read and scribble in the notebook. When a decent scanner crosses my path I'll upload some goodies over there. Have you wondered how you might like the distances covered on this journey? I've been thinking a lot about how I liked them and what kinds of people I met and what kinds of people would like these places and people- the ones I loved, the ones I loathed. What follows is a capsulized description of my experiences in the seven new countries I visited on this trip (the final two, Malaysia and Singapore are not described here since my time with them is so limited).
1. China
China can be very difficult. English is not widely spoken (not that it should be). Mandarin is tonal and difficult for Western tongues. This means that a single syllable, ma for instance, has several means based on a rising tone, stagnant tone, etc. China is huge, and most of the places tourists go are grossly polluted- as mentioned in the blog previously, there are over 100 cities with over a million people in China. Still, the independent traveler will a lot of time and patience can find gems of secluded villages in places like Yunnan province in the South. Tibet is wonderful (and dying) culturally, but a bit overrated, especially since the magical Nepal is so close by (see item 3).
2. Mongolia
Mongolia is paradise for nature and adventure lovers. But you also have to be patient and understand cultural relativism. Be prepared to eat a lot of mutton. The Mongolian capital Ulan Bator is deceptively modern and familiar for travelers, but beyond lies a mess of dirt roads that very few could have a chance of navigating. You are therefore left with two options for exploring the country, as driving yourself is possible but ridiculous for normal folk (and flying won't get you to enough places). You can take public transport, but you'll be stacked like a sardine for 10,20, or more hours straight in a Russian van designed to hold about 8 comfortably. Your other option is quite economical. Get yourself to UB and either posts signs in traveler hangouts or read the ones posted. Get together with 2-4 other travelers who want to see the same sights on the same route and hire a van and driver. This will set you back $35-$45 USD a day. Split between 4 people, assuming you self-cater often and camp most nights, expect to spend $20-$25 per person, per day (petrol is expensive). Mongolians have an amazing history, Genghis or his predecessors could have owned the world but a sickness and following events changed everything. The land is harsh, and the fare for your tummy might be difficult. It is a great place, with rewards for the adventurer in you.
3. Nepal
I was in Nepal during the ceasefire, and even though the State Department warned against travel there, I felt safe the entire time, but I am not sure how I would feel there now, especially after a devastating election. Disregarding Nepali politics, it is a lovely place. There isn't much to see for the casual traveler, but someone into trekking will see sights available nowhere else on earth. If you're a little chicken, see them the easy way and travel overland between Lhasa and Kathmandu (better this direction and not the other). You can do this with a private jeep or a local bus. Nepali people are kind and thoughtful, the food is good, and tourism doesn't overrun the country as it does in Thailand. Much of Nepal still has a sweet purity (except for Pokara- 'lakeside' is obnoxious), and it is very cheap- cheaper than India even. On my way home I'm putting my account book into categories and I will have some stats and totals for the trip to share (something like the entry MoneyMoneyMoney, which detailed my expenses for one month in SE Asia a couple years back. Magical children live here- they love your love and time and friendship.
4. India
India is not for everyone. Everything you have heard is true. People do sometimes defecate in the streets and parts of most cities smell like sewers. It can be a mess and your tummy will suffer. Begging women with drugged children, old men with missing limbs and children half-naked in dirty rags will accost you. India is not for everyone. When traveling through the Bangkok airport today I met some Indians heading back home. It did not take long for a conversation about our shared love for their homeland. One gentleman asked me why I liked it so much. It is hard to say. I was lucky (beyond words) to stay with a family and most of my intersections with others were pleasant. There were little troubles at every turn, on every bus and train and with every meal, but the variety of languages and people, the swelling life bursting from the seams of shacks and restaurants was overwhelming and fulfilling. It was scary thinking about traveling there, I wanted to love it, I wanted to get what people were talking about. After such a wonderful time Thailand was a shock, and I have found that a lot of others share this feeling. My gut dislike faded (see below) with Thailand, but the intensity India brings about could not be replicated.
5. Thailand
The 'land of smiles' is... not. Thailand is a vacation spot. With proper time and transport you can uncover some jungle-y riches, but the government (nevermind current turmoil) had allocated its tourism riches so well that this country of 66 million has an infrastructure to die for. This is good and bad- 7-11s are everywhere- even 40 meters from each other- it is just like I imagine Canada except fewer horses. The backpacker's path is well worn- with every step you'll feel the instep of a guy with a huge pack (3 week trip) who got fake dreads in Bangkok and wears a t-shirt proclaiming "No Money, No Honey" (he has neither- not surprisingly- and "plays guitar, mostly Hendrix shit"). You won't discover any long-lost tribes here, but you might find some secluded and pristine beaches (just hurry up). This is the place to come if you aren't a stickler for bargaining- good prices are all around, but know you're paying a premium because of your skin color. The way of SE Asia is a two-tiered pricing system. You can't fight it without serious Thai skills and knowledge of how cheap things are. It is very cheap compared to the West, yes, but India, in contrast, is a place where it is possible, and much easier, to pay what locals pay. Thais are generally reserved and dislike confrontation, but in the South and central areas they can be somewhat aggressive and refuse to let you pay local prices. This is especially unnerving for people that come from other parts of Asia. If you have any trepidation about Asia, it is a wonderful place to start travel in the region.
6. and 7. Cambodia and Laos
These countries have experienced a high rise in tourism as Thailand and Vietnam spruce up shared roads and border crossings. Once seen as serene and overlooked, there are plenty of travellers in both places. This is good- you can find spaghetti and meatballs or a cheese omelet any time of day in the main cities and still see things people love about these places. Namely, Angkor in Cambodia and the Mekong in Laos. Roads are a bit better in Laos but travel overall is very easy, but maybe dusty and hot. See the previous post for what to expect- bring some patience. Laos is very laid back, secrets and noodles await your visit- just don't turn it into Thailand.
I've loved sharing this trip- the support and comments have made it even better. I'll post some money and packing stuff soon. Questions are welcome.
1. China
China can be very difficult. English is not widely spoken (not that it should be). Mandarin is tonal and difficult for Western tongues. This means that a single syllable, ma for instance, has several means based on a rising tone, stagnant tone, etc. China is huge, and most of the places tourists go are grossly polluted- as mentioned in the blog previously, there are over 100 cities with over a million people in China. Still, the independent traveler will a lot of time and patience can find gems of secluded villages in places like Yunnan province in the South. Tibet is wonderful (and dying) culturally, but a bit overrated, especially since the magical Nepal is so close by (see item 3).
2. Mongolia
Mongolia is paradise for nature and adventure lovers. But you also have to be patient and understand cultural relativism. Be prepared to eat a lot of mutton. The Mongolian capital Ulan Bator is deceptively modern and familiar for travelers, but beyond lies a mess of dirt roads that very few could have a chance of navigating. You are therefore left with two options for exploring the country, as driving yourself is possible but ridiculous for normal folk (and flying won't get you to enough places). You can take public transport, but you'll be stacked like a sardine for 10,20, or more hours straight in a Russian van designed to hold about 8 comfortably. Your other option is quite economical. Get yourself to UB and either posts signs in traveler hangouts or read the ones posted. Get together with 2-4 other travelers who want to see the same sights on the same route and hire a van and driver. This will set you back $35-$45 USD a day. Split between 4 people, assuming you self-cater often and camp most nights, expect to spend $20-$25 per person, per day (petrol is expensive). Mongolians have an amazing history, Genghis or his predecessors could have owned the world but a sickness and following events changed everything. The land is harsh, and the fare for your tummy might be difficult. It is a great place, with rewards for the adventurer in you.
3. Nepal
I was in Nepal during the ceasefire, and even though the State Department warned against travel there, I felt safe the entire time, but I am not sure how I would feel there now, especially after a devastating election. Disregarding Nepali politics, it is a lovely place. There isn't much to see for the casual traveler, but someone into trekking will see sights available nowhere else on earth. If you're a little chicken, see them the easy way and travel overland between Lhasa and Kathmandu (better this direction and not the other). You can do this with a private jeep or a local bus. Nepali people are kind and thoughtful, the food is good, and tourism doesn't overrun the country as it does in Thailand. Much of Nepal still has a sweet purity (except for Pokara- 'lakeside' is obnoxious), and it is very cheap- cheaper than India even. On my way home I'm putting my account book into categories and I will have some stats and totals for the trip to share (something like the entry MoneyMoneyMoney, which detailed my expenses for one month in SE Asia a couple years back. Magical children live here- they love your love and time and friendship.
4. India
India is not for everyone. Everything you have heard is true. People do sometimes defecate in the streets and parts of most cities smell like sewers. It can be a mess and your tummy will suffer. Begging women with drugged children, old men with missing limbs and children half-naked in dirty rags will accost you. India is not for everyone. When traveling through the Bangkok airport today I met some Indians heading back home. It did not take long for a conversation about our shared love for their homeland. One gentleman asked me why I liked it so much. It is hard to say. I was lucky (beyond words) to stay with a family and most of my intersections with others were pleasant. There were little troubles at every turn, on every bus and train and with every meal, but the variety of languages and people, the swelling life bursting from the seams of shacks and restaurants was overwhelming and fulfilling. It was scary thinking about traveling there, I wanted to love it, I wanted to get what people were talking about. After such a wonderful time Thailand was a shock, and I have found that a lot of others share this feeling. My gut dislike faded (see below) with Thailand, but the intensity India brings about could not be replicated.
5. Thailand
The 'land of smiles' is... not. Thailand is a vacation spot. With proper time and transport you can uncover some jungle-y riches, but the government (nevermind current turmoil) had allocated its tourism riches so well that this country of 66 million has an infrastructure to die for. This is good and bad- 7-11s are everywhere- even 40 meters from each other- it is just like I imagine Canada except fewer horses. The backpacker's path is well worn- with every step you'll feel the instep of a guy with a huge pack (3 week trip) who got fake dreads in Bangkok and wears a t-shirt proclaiming "No Money, No Honey" (he has neither- not surprisingly- and "plays guitar, mostly Hendrix shit"). You won't discover any long-lost tribes here, but you might find some secluded and pristine beaches (just hurry up). This is the place to come if you aren't a stickler for bargaining- good prices are all around, but know you're paying a premium because of your skin color. The way of SE Asia is a two-tiered pricing system. You can't fight it without serious Thai skills and knowledge of how cheap things are. It is very cheap compared to the West, yes, but India, in contrast, is a place where it is possible, and much easier, to pay what locals pay. Thais are generally reserved and dislike confrontation, but in the South and central areas they can be somewhat aggressive and refuse to let you pay local prices. This is especially unnerving for people that come from other parts of Asia. If you have any trepidation about Asia, it is a wonderful place to start travel in the region.
6. and 7. Cambodia and Laos
These countries have experienced a high rise in tourism as Thailand and Vietnam spruce up shared roads and border crossings. Once seen as serene and overlooked, there are plenty of travellers in both places. This is good- you can find spaghetti and meatballs or a cheese omelet any time of day in the main cities and still see things people love about these places. Namely, Angkor in Cambodia and the Mekong in Laos. Roads are a bit better in Laos but travel overall is very easy, but maybe dusty and hot. See the previous post for what to expect- bring some patience. Laos is very laid back, secrets and noodles await your visit- just don't turn it into Thailand.
I've loved sharing this trip- the support and comments have made it even better. I'll post some money and packing stuff soon. Questions are welcome.
posted by Maya at 9:46 AM
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