Saturday, January 21, 2006

Happiest New Year

Where did I leave off? It was the last day of 2005 and I was set to be on night bus for 2006's entry, and in a small beach town by morning. As usual, my presence was something of a spectacle for those at the station, and the men(always men- because the women are at home) that spoke to me were worried that I'd have trouble finding my bus or procuring a ticket. Sometimes it feels nice to be cared for in this way, but most of the time it is frustrating being treated like a feeble child. I walked away from a group of gentleman and one of them later seemed to be following me. "Don't go to Diu," he said, "come with me." I'm not sure what I first felt- I suppose a mixture of suspicion and a condescending and sarcastic 'oh sure.' But, we began talking, and he was sincere in his curiosity and interest in me- plus he lived with his wife and two children, whom he phoned and let me speak to. It was with some trepidation that I said yes to this strange offer, promising only one night to him, and to myself that I could abandon our bus if I felt unease.

Hitendra lives 1-2 hours east of Ahmendad, a filthy and congested Gujarati hub of activity. We arrived in the smallish (population 50,000) city late in the evening, the last day of the year. His home is a simple concrete structure among 143 others, their "society." His wife, Rama, and son, Bittu, were up when I got there, but daughter Milu was sleeping. It was a friendly atmosphere, but I was reserved. The word of my arrival spread quickly and soon there were friends and neighbors peeking through the window and knocking on the door- as many as 30 or 40 the first night.

Having finished a wonderful homemade dinner, sitting with this lovely family, it was the perfect way to look and and see the new year had begun.

bittu
rama and milu
rama cooking

I stayed there for several days, each day they took wonderful care of me- setting out a place to sleep and cooking for me, taking me around town and even out for special visits. Hitendra is a primary school teacher and asked me to give a lecture to the faculty on my areas of interest (with 2 hours prep time!), anthropology and HIV/AIDS. It was wonderful to give a lecture after all this time and it surprised me how much I enjoyed it.

teaching

You know, this is why I don't want to be a writer, this is why I couldn't be a writer- I can't (or maybe I'm just too lazy to) find the words to describe what I experienced there. One of the best things was just being able to spend time with Indian women. It just seems as if 90% of Indians are men because they are represented well on the streets and in public. The women of the society were kind and generous, affable and forthright. The children hugged me and gave me small gifts, played games with me and asked me to dance and sing for them. Maybe some more photos can express what it was like there...

abandoned stall
parrot
baby
commisioner's grandkids
downward
foram
kid and water buffalo
red cap
apprenhensive fellow
village woman and maya
on her side
he said he was my second father
laughing

7 Comments:

Carlos Rodriguez said...

Great post. At first blush it looks like there are indeed selfless, genuinely nice people in the world, restoring one's faith in humanity, etc. I am wondering (pessimistically, for the sake of argument) if there's an unspoken expectation of at least a bit of monetary compensation.

I don't doubt that they want to hang out with you because you seem nice and are a curiousity, but they also know that your spare change is a lot of money to them (I assume, though I expect this is less the case with some of the people you run into).

I don't know if I'm putting this right, but what are your thoughts?

6:55 AM, January 21, 2006  
Robb Zipp said...

Happy New Year!

I'm glad to see that you're adventure is still going along well.

7:19 AM, January 21, 2006  
animoller said...

I love reading your stories so much!

2:08 PM, January 22, 2006  
eclipse said...

Just wanted to say how wonderful it is to read about your travels. 'WOW' is what I keep thinking as I look at the pictures and read your words. Expieriences like the ones you are having are inspiring and amazing to someone that has never been out of his own country.
Thank You for sharing this with everyone!

5:11 PM, January 22, 2006  
[hysdavid] said...

Happy New Year!

I've enjoyed reading about your travels. That picture of Bittu(?), wide-eyed, with the orange and blue shirt is great.

Hope to meet you at Khaaaaan in March.

be well

11:48 AM, January 28, 2006  
Anonymous said...

u look more like a hindu!

10:12 AM, February 06, 2006  
Jimmie Whipple said...

Thank you for showing me the beauty of India. I had no idea.

12:19 PM, February 27, 2006  

Post a Comment

Links to this post:

Create a Link

<< Home