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After I returned from Asia I spent a couple of months in San Francisco and then to the Marshall Islands as a volunteer teacher. Since my island return, I had a children's book published, and now I am heading back to Asia!

Join me! I've got a FAQ on the way, and will be posting minutiae quite often, along with photos of everything I eat and everywhere I sleep!

Updates and BIG News

I have been back almost four months now. Sharing the adventure complimented my experiences in many ways, and I truly appreciate the spoken and unspoken support I have received through this blog. Onto the news...

There has been a major update in the notebook- 32 new pages are now available, with thumbnails coming soon, and a new first image: a collage illustrating the size of the notebook. The newly added pages start with image x=47. I'm also working on a guestbook for comments over there- let me know if you have any ideas.

And some big news: I am about to begin another adventure! One week ago I accepted a volunteer teaching position with WorldTeach in their Marshall Islands program! WorldTeach was started in 1986 by Harvard students, and places volunteers in developing nations as teachers. The program lasts for one year, with a chance of renewal. After the first month, during which I will be in training and take Marshallese courses, I will move to my island and live without electricity and running water.

Despite difficulties of living so simply, I have a new blog which I plan to update through letters I mail home that are scanned and posted by a close friend. Check out the new blog!

Please consider donating to my Dropcash campaign (via paypal). Many of the schools suffer for lack of supplies, and I am trying to raise as much as I can to aid my school. I have a unique opportunity, as I will be the first in the program's history to teach at my particular school. Please consider donating a few bucks, and if you would rather send books, supplies, or letters, you'll find more information in the Letters Home blog.

Thanks so much!!

MONEY!

Whenever traveling, I record every penny passing through my fingers. Whether finding one Quetzal, losing two Shillings, or buying an eighty Dollar train ticket, I write it down. On this trip I 'balanced' the contents of my coin purse at least once a day. In the midst of begging children, dying animals, chaotic festivals, roaming hands of roaming men, and 30 hour trains- something like this is a true constant- needless and monotonous in its simple joy. Here is a look at one of my expense book pages(I used a small gridded Moleskine)from my time in China (rough exchange rate- 8 RMB = 1 USD):




You can see a few more pages here.

All of my other trips were under three months long, and compiling at the end was easy and often accomplished on the plane ride home. Here is the post about my previous trip (one month long). This time, however, it was more difficult:

* 167 pages
* 2170 entries
* 10 currencies
   Chinese Yuan, Mongolian Tughrik, Nepali Rupee, Indian Rupee,
   Thai Baht, Cambodian Riel, Lao Kip, Singapore Dollar, Malaysian
   Ringgit and United States Dollar

Thousands of dollars, and I can account for all but $21.29 of it! Take a look below to see EXACTLY what 6.5 months in Asia cost me.

Pre-trip Expenses

Air.......................................................................... $30.00
  -taxes only; I used frequent flyer miles for my open jaw:
   Houston, TX to Newark, NJ to Beijing, China and
   Singapore to San Francisco, CA (unused leg SF, CA - Hou, TX)
Visas (China and India)............................................. $115.00
Travel Insurance...................................................... $238.00
Guidebooks............................................................... $38.26
Clothes and Shoes..................................................... $125.91
Misc.......................................................................... $95.81

Total Pre-trip Expenses: $642.98

Expenses During Trip*
  *expenses meticulously kept during trip and converted
   for this blog using date-sensitive exchange rates.

Transport............................................................... $1336.40
Air - $389.12
  -Chengdu, China to Lhasa, Tibet, China (inc. permit)
  -Calcutta, India to Bangkok, Thailand
  -Bangkok, Thailand to Singapore
Local (bus/train/rickshaw/taxi/ferry/etc) - $190.73
Long Distance (bus/train) - $390.66
  -includes 7 overnight buses and 14 overnight trains (!)
Mongolian Van, Driver and Petrol - $365.89

Accommodation.................................................... $522.69
   note: overnight train and bus fees inc. in "transport"

Food...................................................................... $863.44
Restaurants - $484.84
Street Food - $71.73
Convenience Stores - $187.09
Other (beverages/fast food/ice cream/alcohol) - $119.78

Amusement/Attractions............................................ $437.42
General Attractions - $220.90
Museums - $24.12
Monasteries and Temples - $32.36
Tours - $70.09
Other (movies/arcade/etc) - $89.95

Communication/Post............................................. $382.52
Internet/Burning CDs - $139.64
Post - $20.37
Calling Cards and Phone Calls - $59.29
Sending Packages Home - $163.22

Souvenirs and Purchases........................................ $1207.94
Toiletries - $25.37
Paper Goods etc - $57.48
Personal Souvenirs - $633.24
  -includes heavy clothing for Mongolia
DVDs/CDs/MP3cds - $117.46
Paintings (Thangka and Bengali) - $278.16
Gifts - $96.23

Other....................................................................... $398.01
Saved Local Currency - $4.81
Unknown/Lost - $21.29
Laundry - $15.22
Beggars - $20.43
Gifts for Locals - $116.44
Visas/Immigration - $136.71
Books - $39.76
Other - $43.35

Pre-trip Expenses .............. $642.98
Trip Expenses .................. $5148.42
----------------------------------
Total Expenses ...................... $5791.40

I did not have a budget, but anticipated spending $5000-$8000. Generally speaking, the countries I went to are known for inexpensive travel, though luxuries are not hard to come by! I lived and ate very cheaply, and could have spent less overall, but I'm a sucker for indigenous art and textiles (I bought 30 paintings in India), and I definitely did not want to deny myself the occassional ice-cream cone or first-class bus!

Thanks for coming by! Happy travels.

Recycled Eyeglasses

I've been back for three months- so long that I've started mourning the end of the adventure. Settling temporarily in San Francisco has been fantastic, though I do not find myself dedicated to working again and making this permanent.

You know that saying about rose-colored glasses? I think culture is like that, permeating everything in our lives. When I found myself around Westerners again there was an extended period of readjustment. I felt as if I forgot to put on my glasses, that I was a foreigner to the motivations and desires of the people around me. When I saw recognizable Punjabs in turbans I wanted to approach them and talk about curry and Amritsar. When I saw a Cambodian man at Best Buy I wanted to ask him about his family and Pol Pot.

I'm feeling a little lost now, but working on plans for the next year (which may be pretty exciting!). In the near future, there will be several updates to the site, including a breakdown of my expenses for the Asia trip next Monday, as well as more photos and Notebook updates!

Check Out

I have checked out. I stopped taking pictures and writing doing touristy things. I hang out and walk and eat and read and scribble in the notebook. When a decent scanner crosses my path I'll upload some goodies over there. Have you wondered how you might like the distances covered on this journey? I've been thinking a lot about how I liked them and what kinds of people I met and what kinds of people would like these places and people- the ones I loved, the ones I loathed. What follows is a capsulized description of my experiences in the seven new countries I visited on this trip (the final two, Malaysia and Singapore are not described here since my time with them is so limited).

1. China

China can be very difficult. English is not widely spoken (not that it should be). Mandarin is tonal and difficult for Western tongues. This means that a single syllable, ma for instance, has several means based on a rising tone, stagnant tone, etc. China is huge, and most of the places tourists go are grossly polluted- as mentioned in the blog previously, there are over 100 cities with over a million people in China. Still, the independent traveler will a lot of time and patience can find gems of secluded villages in places like Yunnan province in the South. Tibet is wonderful (and dying) culturally, but a bit overrated, especially since the magical Nepal is so close by (see item 3).

2. Mongolia

Mongolia is paradise for nature and adventure lovers. But you also have to be patient and understand cultural relativism. Be prepared to eat a lot of mutton. The Mongolian capital Ulan Bator is deceptively modern and familiar for travelers, but beyond lies a mess of dirt roads that very few could have a chance of navigating. You are therefore left with two options for exploring the country, as driving yourself is possible but ridiculous for normal folk (and flying won't get you to enough places). You can take public transport, but you'll be stacked like a sardine for 10,20, or more hours straight in a Russian van designed to hold about 8 comfortably. Your other option is quite economical. Get yourself to UB and either posts signs in traveler hangouts or read the ones posted. Get together with 2-4 other travelers who want to see the same sights on the same route and hire a van and driver. This will set you back $35-$45 USD a day. Split between 4 people, assuming you self-cater often and camp most nights, expect to spend $20-$25 per person, per day (petrol is expensive). Mongolians have an amazing history, Genghis or his predecessors could have owned the world but a sickness and following events changed everything. The land is harsh, and the fare for your tummy might be difficult. It is a great place, with rewards for the adventurer in you.

3. Nepal

I was in Nepal during the ceasefire, and even though the State Department warned against travel there, I felt safe the entire time, but I am not sure how I would feel there now, especially after a devastating election. Disregarding Nepali politics, it is a lovely place. There isn't much to see for the casual traveler, but someone into trekking will see sights available nowhere else on earth. If you're a little chicken, see them the easy way and travel overland between Lhasa and Kathmandu (better this direction and not the other). You can do this with a private jeep or a local bus. Nepali people are kind and thoughtful, the food is good, and tourism doesn't overrun the country as it does in Thailand. Much of Nepal still has a sweet purity (except for Pokara- 'lakeside' is obnoxious), and it is very cheap- cheaper than India even. On my way home I'm putting my account book into categories and I will have some stats and totals for the trip to share (something like the entry MoneyMoneyMoney, which detailed my expenses for one month in SE Asia a couple years back. Magical children live here- they love your love and time and friendship.

4. India

India is not for everyone. Everything you have heard is true. People do sometimes defecate in the streets and parts of most cities smell like sewers. It can be a mess and your tummy will suffer. Begging women with drugged children, old men with missing limbs and children half-naked in dirty rags will accost you. India is not for everyone. When traveling through the Bangkok airport today I met some Indians heading back home. It did not take long for a conversation about our shared love for their homeland. One gentleman asked me why I liked it so much. It is hard to say. I was lucky (beyond words) to stay with a family and most of my intersections with others were pleasant. There were little troubles at every turn, on every bus and train and with every meal, but the variety of languages and people, the swelling life bursting from the seams of shacks and restaurants was overwhelming and fulfilling. It was scary thinking about traveling there, I wanted to love it, I wanted to get what people were talking about. After such a wonderful time Thailand was a shock, and I have found that a lot of others share this feeling. My gut dislike faded (see below) with Thailand, but the intensity India brings about could not be replicated.

5. Thailand

The 'land of smiles' is... not. Thailand is a vacation spot. With proper time and transport you can uncover some jungle-y riches, but the government (nevermind current turmoil) had allocated its tourism riches so well that this country of 66 million has an infrastructure to die for. This is good and bad- 7-11s are everywhere- even 40 meters from each other- it is just like I imagine Canada except fewer horses. The backpacker's path is well worn- with every step you'll feel the instep of a guy with a huge pack (3 week trip) who got fake dreads in Bangkok and wears a t-shirt proclaiming "No Money, No Honey" (he has neither- not surprisingly- and "plays guitar, mostly Hendrix shit"). You won't discover any long-lost tribes here, but you might find some secluded and pristine beaches (just hurry up). This is the place to come if you aren't a stickler for bargaining- good prices are all around, but know you're paying a premium because of your skin color. The way of SE Asia is a two-tiered pricing system. You can't fight it without serious Thai skills and knowledge of how cheap things are. It is very cheap compared to the West, yes, but India, in contrast, is a place where it is possible, and much easier, to pay what locals pay. Thais are generally reserved and dislike confrontation, but in the South and central areas they can be somewhat aggressive and refuse to let you pay local prices. This is especially unnerving for people that come from other parts of Asia. If you have any trepidation about Asia, it is a wonderful place to start travel in the region.

6. and 7. Cambodia and Laos

These countries have experienced a high rise in tourism as Thailand and Vietnam spruce up shared roads and border crossings. Once seen as serene and overlooked, there are plenty of travellers in both places. This is good- you can find spaghetti and meatballs or a cheese omelet any time of day in the main cities and still see things people love about these places. Namely, Angkor in Cambodia and the Mekong in Laos. Roads are a bit better in Laos but travel overall is very easy, but maybe dusty and hot. See the previous post for what to expect- bring some patience. Laos is very laid back, secrets and noodles await your visit- just don't turn it into Thailand.

I've loved sharing this trip- the support and comments have made it even better. I'll post some money and packing stuff soon. Questions are welcome.

How To: Getting to Laos

1. From your cheap guesthouse in Siem Reap (Angkor Wat's home) buy a ticket (4 bucks) to Poipet at the Cambodia/Thailand border. The guy at the guesthouse may tell you the bus leaves at 8am, but that could mean as early as 7:30 or as late as 9am. When it arrives to scoop you up, don't expect anyone to tell you what to do with your bag, and don't be annoyed when it ends up in the aisle of the 20-seater mini-bus and has 17 dusty shoe prints by the end of the trip. You will probably be sitting by one of the sweet windows that opens, but you'll also be covered by a sheen of red dust after the bumpy 6 hour journey. Expect to find dust in your bra that evening.

2. Everyone gets off the bus in Poipet, but you are probably going to be the only one not getting on a different bus to cross the border and further trek to Bangkok. Just walk away from their Package Deal and find a moto (motorbike/cycle taxi) on the street. Have the guy take you to the border.

2. Go through Cambodian immigration, and walk 100 hundred meters to Thai immigration. The guy with the forms may ignore you, so be persistent. Fill them out, get questioned and hopefully stamped. Walk another 200 hundred meters- this time past all the tour buses and their minions.Walk around confused in the stifling heat, ask someone where the bus station is. They point west.

3. Start walking and ask someone else. It is 7 kilometers west. Take a moto taxi to the bus station. Don't be mad if the driver ignores the 9kilos on your back and drives 90kph.

4. Arrive at the 'bus station' without any information. Look at your book and choose a city on the road to the Thai/Laos border nearest. Get lucky and find a bus leaving in 10 minutes. Forget about peeing and try to enjoy the fancy 4 hours in comfort.

5. Arrive in Bari Rum around 7:30pm. Get a cheap room with a small television and OMG cable. Watch American Idol by satellite, but you won't find out if Tifani makes it because the connection cuts out. The room is 210 baht for the night- about 5 dollars.

6. Wake up at 6:30am, get ready leisurely and head to the train station to check the schedule for Ubon Rathathani. Find out that the best train leaves in 20 minutes. Run back to the hotel, gather your things, check out and run to make the train. Make sure you sit next to a Thai guy who speaks some kind of pig latin and buys several portions of fried grasshoppers, snapping them in his mouth joyfully.

7. Upon arrival, argue with a moto driver about the cost for a ride to the Warin Market, where you're likely to get a bus. Plan to pee at the market, don't worry about it now.

8. You have seen no other falangs (foreigners) since the border, but you seem to be expected at the market. As you climb from the moto, a severely pregnant woman hanging out of a slowly moving bus yells to you "CHONG MEK? CHONG MEK!" Yeah, you shrug, and she ushers you on. The driver says "Phibun! You go! Change bus Chong Mek. OK!?" No time to pee.

9. The bus is hot and sticky, crowded with smiling Thai, their eyes glued to a television set showing a national comedy sketch show in which squeaky whines and beat-em-ups dominate. Don't mind that, something pulls your eyes to the door. Something looks out of place. What is that? It looks as if one of the cushioned seat backs has split- is that cotton? Oh, no, it is just a PRAYING MANTIS. You can't take your eyes off it. Is that real? Then it starts to move, along a rail and finally along the door frame where it licks and ponders. Take pictures. An hour later at Phibun Mangsahan, you're still staring. Be careful leaving the bus, walking under it. Take a photo close-up. The driver will laugh at you.

10. A sawngthaew (a truck with two rows of benches along the bed and a roof) seems to be waiting for you. Go to Chong Mek.

11. Once at the station in Chong Mek, take a moto taxi to the Thai/Laos border. On the Thai side, you pass several small offices before the correct one for your departure stamp. Make sure to spend a few minutes listening to the angel-voiced blind musician. Give him some money- paper money, please. On the Laotian side, good luck finding the office. You'll pass a bevy and even small market area before the proper station. Find out you unnecessarily got your pricey Visa in Phnom Penh because they now offer visas on arrival at the crossing. Get cheated by an officer who claims there is an "immigration card" fee even though you have one given to you by the Laos consulate in Cambodia. Curse him.

12. Take an unneeded moto Taxi to the the sawngthaew stop for Pakse, across the Mekong.

13. The Sawngthaew driver wants the Kip (local currency) equivalent of a buck for the 1 hour ride. Seems fair, and the only one going the whole way of the 20 squished in. Women with bundles of lives ducks and chickens, baskets of noodles and fruit, file in and out, as the vehicle seems to stop every kilometer.

14. Once in Pakse take a jumbo to a guesthouse. Make sure the guesthouse is full so you have to walk around a while before finding another place.

Welcome to Laos!

New Feature, etc

Album of some of my favorite photos from this trip- click on the right for the next photo, on the left for the previous, or in the center for a larger version!

I'm in Cambodia. Everything is still India for me- I think about Indian currency and people and food, poverty and homes and transport. My last meal there was a thali, a set meal with several vegetable curries and often a choice of naan (bread, as seen here) or rice and sometimes with yogurt, salad, papad (fried or baked thin round sheets of lentil flour) and pickled vegetables or fruit. I was so happy the next day, but Thailand left me dreary right from the start...




I had managed a bit of fun on an island that feeds both hedonistic locals and tourists, greed spilling from their suffocated lungs and pocketbooks. It is clear to me that Thailand is more, and I will have two more short visits before returning home to find some peace and peaceful people there. Now that I have a guidebook I can more easily sort it all out.




All of a sudden, in the thick humidity of anxious greed I realized that Cambodia was very close- one hour to the border in fact- and visas given on arrival. So I went to the border and after sorting through some immigration issues with extra cash (no comment), I made it.



Cambodia is gorgeous- dry like many other parts of Asia now, but still brilliantly green. I love it. The children are ferociously friendly, with broad curious smiles and calls of "hello!" at every turn. After some time near the border I headed for the capitol, Phnom Penh.

What a strange place it was, modern, with beautifully paved roads and a fantastic national museum, but there was this marketing mechanism pulling you into the Killing Fields and pushing you to buy t-shirts with land mines on them and books about Khmer Rouge atrocities from fatherless children... It took a few days in Cambodia to realize where I was- the class discussions (when I was teaching Anthropology) about poverty and third-worldness and the fiber-optic cable they were laying through the whole of the country- the connection took time, as silly as it sounds even to me. This is the place where the Holocaust came alive again in the 1970s. Children play there, children beg there, bones pokes through the paths of the Fields and bits of tattered clothing litter the landscape.




Something appeared in Thailand and Cambodia that had been absent from my eyes thus far in Asia- the blatant sex industry. In Thailand, the single guys seem to think the girls like them and that they are on dates- the sheer number of 30-50yo men by themselves or with 22yo girls is staggering. They are paid, they are always paid. But when I saw these mixed couples I wanted to believe that he was an ex-pat and she was a friend or a legitimate girlfriend. Unfortunately this is not true- the girls follow the offers and money- something even I was privy to witness. Cambodia's industry is cheaper, less structured, and centers around brothels and chickenfarms, small villages consisting solely of Cambodian and imported (sold) Vietnamese girls- some as young as 12. It is still very possible to buy children, and efforts of the government and sometimes self-serving NGOs has not made a sizable dent.

Apparently, one of the HOTNEWASIAN destinations is the temple complexes Angkor Wat, Northwest of in Siem Reap. So HOT that today I listened to two nurses from Washington state catch-up after a surprise run-in and talk about dirty alleys and street food making them sick. Three days visiting temples and it wasn't enough. Even in February the heat can be stifling and the tour groups are a pain, but there are bags of secrets to discover- the predictable nature of both means shady reliefs facing West and deserted temples if you time it just right.









Not much time left, here or anywhere near here. San Francisco is soon, New York is soon... But before all that, I head North through Thailand and then spend some time in Laos before kicking my way back to Bangkok and flying to Singapore, Tokyo and then San Fran. Miss you.