Food...

I am eating very well in India. Street food that is hot (or fried again to reheat/kill germs) is generally safe, and street stalls and small restaurants make delicious Indian staples. Bottled water, fresh fruit, crackers, snacks and juices are easy to find.

I spent the past week in Varanasi. India continues to marvel me with its high highs and low lows. I was a little sick for a short while, but bounced back fast...

Puri (or Poori) is a typical breakfast or snack food in North India. Puri is the puffed, fried bread rounds and is served with a potato, chickpea, or lentil curry. At restaurants you often gets a jalebi with your meal- the swirly orange thing- which is basically a miniature funnel cake that is soaked in super sweet syrup after frying. The price at a basic restaurant: .25-.27 cents.



One of my favorite simple lunch dishes is uppama/upma, a thick semolina porridge-like dish served with sambar, a spicy vegetable soup, and delicious kobbari pacchadi, coconut chutney. The price at a basic restaurant: .40-.60 cents.



For many lunches and dinners, the "set" meal, the thali is the best, and most economical option. Thalis come with any combination of breads: naan, roti, chapati and rice with daal (lentil curry) and generally two more vegetable curries and pickle (a small serving of vegetables or fruits pickled in oil). Sometimes they also come with curd (yogurt), papad (a large crispy lentil flour "cracker") and a small salad of sliced onion, lime, radish or carrot. The price at a basic restaurant: .40 cents - $1.50.



I came back to Calcutta, where I am now, with the intention of returning to the Boi Mela, the largest book fair is Asia hosted in Calcutta for the past 32 years. However, it was canceled! I'm still happy to be here, and full of things to catch you up with- the nun, the orphanage, more attempts at extortion and a HUGE wedding!

No Middleground

India is full on contrasts, of ups and downs, highs and lows. Saying that suggests moving from one end of spectrum to the other, but the moves are jumps, you're thrown to the other end when you least expect it. There is no middle.

Taking a walk the other day I passed two men sitting on the street. I smiled at them and before I was ten meters away they approached me. The father and son were from Darjeeling and had traveled to Calcutta so the son could find work. He is educated and felt his chances were very high here. On the train coming down, the father fell asleep and all of their possessions were stolen. Now, in Calcutta, they have nothing- no money for food or a place to sleep- or even a ticket home. I spoke with them for perhaps 30 minutes and the son said he was sick with a fever. I gave him some Tylenol with instructions. He also said that he needed some money to get photos taken so he could have his identity in this city to find work. I was skeptical, but these gentlemen spoke excellent English and their story was incredible and believable. I eventually agreed to walk with them to a photo studio and, if it seemed legit, to pay for the photos. I did not want to hand over money. To make a long story short, I spent 2-2.5 hours with them. The photo place quoted exorbitant prices and then asked for my "last price". This was something I expected to haggle over- I just wanted to know how much the (passport style) photos were.

In the end, I told them I did not believe the story and I would not give them anything or pay for photos. In one of his final pleas the son said "If you do this, you will save my life." What to do?! I was growing more unsure and skeptical. I said: "If I am right I am sad, because you seemed like good people, and if I am wrong I am sad because you need help and I did not help you. Good luck." The son then said "I don't need your good wishes" and THREW the Tylenol at me and they walked off. Clearly, it was a scam/sob story and I later found out that they are, basically, professionals.

That was difficult.

The next day I was exhausted and very hungry as I rushed to meet some local students for conversation. They did not show and I was very disappointed. However, I was happy to be able to have some lunch at my favorite street stall. I ordered quickly and waited on a bench. The proprietor employs several deaf boys/young men and they are very friendly. As I waited, one of them walked up with an Australian man. The boy had JUST, moments before, been given a custom fitted hearing aid. I watched as he communicated new sensations to another deaf shop boy. "My stomach was turning and my heart was beating. All of a sudden, there were sounds/vibrations from here and here and there and there! I can't believe it." I watched as the other boy expressed that he prefers his deafness, that he can sleep easily and does not worry about idle chatter, car horns and annoying people. My food had arrived and by this time I forgot I was hungry. I cried with the boy as he told me how excited he was and how careful he wanted to be with his new device. He showed me the box, all of the spare batteries and even the original mold used for the silicon piece.

This was wonderful.

Heading to Varanasi tonight. Pictures to come!

India

What did I say last time I was here? Being back in Calcutta, I feel almost as if I never left. I am staying on the same street and a woman I passed on my way in from the airport said: "Nice to see you again." The faces look the same, and some are, indeed the exact same. I swear I recognize a chai wallah and the travel agent that sold me an air ticket two years ago.

It is the smells. You know that Tibetan/Nepali/Unicef shop smell? Nag Champa? It is that, but diluted, with exotic Eastern spices, cheap perfume, burning coal, exhaust... That is what India smells like. What is it that makes it so... intoxicating?

And, the sounds. Horns, and children and water spilling from streetside pumps, samosas frying and chatter over chai.

The colors, of course: bright glittery saris, crisp white school uniforms, aged sarongs tucked skillfully on squatting men, dirty feet.

This is the way I like to describe the difference between Thailand and India: In Thailand let's say that you desire private transport to a temple on the other side of town. The driver of the tuk-tuk or the taxi may quote you $10-$20 when the fare should be $2-$5. Because you are farang(foreigner), because you have more money, you "should" pay more. This is not really the problem, and I feel completely comfortable paying more in places like museums and special long-distance transport. In India, they also quote higher prices, but not always.

Here is the difference I have seen. In Thailand, by kindly suggesting the correct $2-$5 fare you will often be flatly refused, and maybe laughed at. In India, the merchant will usually smile and agree. The Western world certainly isn't egalitarian, though we generally believe the cost of goods and services are fixed. Haggling for nearly everything comes to be a way of life, yet can be aggravating, especially in situations when you have no other place to buy water or no other transport options. Someone I met in Calcutta described this problem I experienced as "professional begging". Of course, it is certainly not exclusive to any one country...

However, in Thailand, as a woman traveling alone, I felt, in a way, I had been made obsolete. This is strange for me to say, but I was finally able to clarify this feeling when I arrived in Calcutta. People are interested in me here! And, I honestly feel, not just for my Western wallet. Since arriving fewer than 24 hours ago I have had conversations with Indians about Western politics, the perceived subservience of Asian women, child abuse, and more...

In Thailand, I met very few locals who were interested in friendship or conversation. Judging by the first few moments of most of my conversations you would believe otherwise: "Hello! Where you from?" etc etc. But, usually, salutations and kindnesses are followed by invitations to: look at tour/trekking photos, buy goods, buy food, buy something! Many young Thai women work as escorts/prostitutes, getting paid cash, but also traveling with their companions. They have very little interest in Western women, or any women, as they are potential blocks to more money from their part-time farang lovers. Groups of Western women garner some interest, as they are sometimes vacationing Spring Break style (drinking, beaching, shopping, and maybe more drinking). Don't believe middle-aged men traveling alone when they make it a point to say they are not there for sex tourism, and consider insisting they hire only girls over 18 and are not enslaved.

India, I was quickly reminded, is full of curious people, and in Calcutta especially, many are skilled in the English language and interested in conversation with a purpose of... conversation.

More soon!

Bangkok to Calcutta

On Wednesday, January 16, my real trip begins! I will arrive in Calcutta, India, via air from Bangkok. I returned to Bangkok a few days ago to get a ticket and finally move forward, but I had to wait to get a decent fare... It has actually been nice relaxing and walking, reading and meeting people, trying mystery street foods and watching movies in tourist restaurants. I plan for about 3 months in India and possibly Bangladesh and/or Nepal before heading back to Southeast Asia for the remaining cool(ish) months. In September or October I will return to India- though I am not sure where I will find refuge from the heat in July and August!

I have been taking photographs of all my meals as well as all the places I am sleeping. Once in India I will decide on how to share these- either on photo pages or as sets on Flickr. See you soon!

Monkeys Everywhere!

The plan is to leave Lopburi tomorrow on a train to Bangkok. I'm goign to do what it takes to fly to India in a few days! Wish me luck!

MONKEY THIEF ATTACK

Yesterday, in the middle of feeling stressed out about finding a reasonably priced entry into India (highly unlikely, and I plan on two round trips...), while flipping the pages of my Thailand guidebook I saw: "blahblahblah more than any other place in Thailand blahblahblah is a city besieged by monkeys blahblahblah".

I came straight here!

Here is Lopburi, a small town of around 60,000 with fast internet! I've been here less than an hour and I was attacked by a monkey. Meters after I exited my bus, he jumped on my small shoulder bag and then on the bag of food I was not-so-cleverly taunting him with. Apples, grapes, a tangerine, and a nearly new box of crackers spilled across the sidewalk. Apart from a few grapes the fruit was recovered. See for yourself what happened to the crackers:



Related belated news, in Calcutta two years ago a monkey stole the banana off my banana yogurt at the outside restaurant run by my hotel. I couldn't complain, the room was around $3 USD a night, and they did not even make me pay for the yogurt part.

How To: Bangkok to Ayutthaya

1. Check out of your room in Bangkok. This consists of waving your key around so a woman lounging on a cushion, eating noodles, watching television, and texting on a mobile sees you. That`s it, they never held a deposit or even asked to see a passport or bothered with your name.

2. Find your way to the appropriate train station. Taxis in tourist areas often refuse to use meters and quote exorbitant prices; leave this area. Please note that Hualamphlong is pronounced ``wah lahm pong`` and if you leave the tourist ghetto you may struggle with driver communication. Find a taxi and be prepared to pay a little extra since he uses his mobile to call someone who may understand your pathetic broken Thai.

3. You make it to the train station and it feels like gold. Buy your ticket, but the officer may embarrass you when his amazing English dwarfs your memorized, rehearsed and subsequently misspoken Thai.

4. Noting that there is no platform information on your ticket, walk as far from where you need to go as possible. Find your train literally as it begins to pull away.

5. Sit where you can, but pay mind to the large sign hanging in the middle of the car that a monk directs your attention to: ``This car is reserved for monks and disableds only.`` Move, and decide on not making a plea for mental disability.

6. Arrive and disembark. Look eagerly for the touts aching for your business. When you find none, get a tuk-tuk into town.

Ayutthaya was the Siamese royal capital for over 400 years- until 1767. The name comes from the Sanskrit Ayodhya meaning ``unassailable``. It is a fairly small town (under 100,000); the main attraction is the Unesco World Heritage temples.

I`m happy to be here in a quieter place so I can plan my entry into India!

ARRIVAL!

Departure, San Francisco: Midnight Thursday
Arrival, Bangkok: Noon Saturday
Elapsed (calendar) time: 36 hours
San Francisco to Taipei- 14 hour flight; 747
Taipei layover- 3 hours
Taipei to Bangkok- 4 hours; Airbus 300
Total travel time: 21 hours
Time difference (PST -7; Thailand +8)- 15 hours

On my way into Bangkok from the airport I was elated, I felt strong knowing what was coming. It may have been a mistake, but thinking I would stay here only a day or two, I decided to stay in one of the main tourist areas because I knew I could find a cheap room and food easily. But panic struck me for a few moments as I wandered through a place I described this way: “I'm sick and achy and everyone here is naked. Bangkok, like India's beach mecca Goa, is a haven for parties and coconut-colored tans. I hate it… [After India] the avalanche of calves and thighs poking out of short denim skirts has thrown me dizzyingly backward.” And, I’m realizing what it means that I am here, with almost nothing- less than 20 pounds of stuff (photo and packing list forthcoming) and no set plans, no reservations, and knowing I said goodbye to someone I met and learned to love since returning from the RMI- for a year.

I’d forgotten the cold showers. In an instant I wanted to go home, to familiar streets and food and arms, to not worrying about water, to real towels. I forgot that one of my packing “secrets”, a pillow case, isn’t just a topic of conversation before the trip, but something I would be using everyday, all the time- as a picnic blanket, as a laundry bag, as a towel. I forgot I would be wearing sandals in the shower and have to lock up my things. Where did home go, will I make it here?

And then I remembered the people and places and things that made me want to return, that the excitement of getting the new (10 year!) Indian visa means I can use it, and yes, YES, this is unsure and frightening a little, but maybe it is a little bit beautiful too- I just have to escape Bangkok first…

I'm off!

Heading to the airport in a few minutes! I've never started a long flight like this, and it was really nice to sleep in late, spend the day ticking things off my to-do list and visiting with the people I love.

I'll be in Bangkok after a 14 hour flight to Taipei, a 3 hour layover, and another 4 hour flight! See you soon!

Not Quite Gone

Several weeks ago I changed my ticket. I'll be leaving San Francisco for Bangkok tomorrow, January 3rd. At the time, news and shipping regarding my recently published children's book, was up in the air, and a delay seemed the best course.

Here I am, though, about to go! This is what I have planned:

1. Fly to Bangkok
2. Visit a family I stayed with in India
3. Fly home from Bangkok in 10-12 months


More soon!