Saturday, January 19, 2008

No Middleground

India is full on contrasts, of ups and downs, highs and lows. Saying that suggests moving from one end of spectrum to the other, but the moves are jumps, you're thrown to the other end when you least expect it. There is no middle.

Taking a walk the other day I passed two men sitting on the street. I smiled at them and before I was ten meters away they approached me. The father and son were from Darjeeling and had traveled to Calcutta so the son could find work. He is educated and felt his chances were very high here. On the train coming down, the father fell asleep and all of their possessions were stolen. Now, in Calcutta, they have nothing- no money for food or a place to sleep- or even a ticket home. I spoke with them for perhaps 30 minutes and the son said he was sick with a fever. I gave him some Tylenol with instructions. He also said that he needed some money to get photos taken so he could have his identity in this city to find work. I was skeptical, but these gentlemen spoke excellent English and their story was incredible and believable. I eventually agreed to walk with them to a photo studio and, if it seemed legit, to pay for the photos. I did not want to hand over money. To make a long story short, I spent 2-2.5 hours with them. The photo place quoted exorbitant prices and then asked for my "last price". This was something I expected to haggle over- I just wanted to know how much the (passport style) photos were.

In the end, I told them I did not believe the story and I would not give them anything or pay for photos. In one of his final pleas the son said "If you do this, you will save my life." What to do?! I was growing more unsure and skeptical. I said: "If I am right I am sad, because you seemed like good people, and if I am wrong I am sad because you need help and I did not help you. Good luck." The son then said "I don't need your good wishes" and THREW the Tylenol at me and they walked off. Clearly, it was a scam/sob story and I later found out that they are, basically, professionals.

That was difficult.

The next day I was exhausted and very hungry as I rushed to meet some local students for conversation. They did not show and I was very disappointed. However, I was happy to be able to have some lunch at my favorite street stall. I ordered quickly and waited on a bench. The proprietor employs several deaf boys/young men and they are very friendly. As I waited, one of them walked up with an Australian man. The boy had JUST, moments before, been given a custom fitted hearing aid. I watched as he communicated new sensations to another deaf shop boy. "My stomach was turning and my heart was beating. All of a sudden, there were sounds/vibrations from here and here and there and there! I can't believe it." I watched as the other boy expressed that he prefers his deafness, that he can sleep easily and does not worry about idle chatter, car horns and annoying people. My food had arrived and by this time I forgot I was hungry. I cried with the boy as he told me how excited he was and how careful he wanted to be with his new device. He showed me the box, all of the spare batteries and even the original mold used for the silicon piece.

This was wonderful.

Heading to Varanasi tonight. Pictures to come!

1 Comments:

Blogger Jody said...

please be careful, maya. you have such a loving and giving soul and i am proud that you were able to stand up for yourself. you are amazing and i am so proud of you.

my thoughts are with you. have a wonderful time.

January 24, 2008 7:19 AM  

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